Unawatuna: The Paradise Island in Sri Lanka

Unawatuna

The Paradise Island in Sri Lanka

                                Text and photos by  Shanu Zhang

 

The thing about being on an island is that you are surrounded by stunning beaches. But even amongst the 360 degrees of breathtaking coasts, some places stand out. On this tour of the beaches of Unawatuna, Shehan Ramanayake reminds us why Sri Lanka has been called a “Paradise Island” throughout the centuries. Define “Paradise” when you go there, and you don’t want to come back.

Many of us shape the way we live, hoping to reach some form of paradise in our next life. Well, you can either wait for your summons to the pearly gates, or pack a light bag and head down to Unawatuna.

Three hours south of Colombo, and a few kilometers past the ancient city of Galle, a little tranquil bay awaits all that seek to get away from the rat race of city life. Protected by a reef and graced on the northern side by the quiet charm of a Buddhist temple, Unawatuna tranquility crates a dreamy bliss that has a unique character of its own.

The coral reef protects the bay from the strong tides, especially during monsoon season, making it safe to swim in throughout the year. The water is clear, shallow, and perfect for swimming and snorkeling, or you could just lie on a board on the surface, and absorb some warm tropical sun while the crisp ocean water washers over you.

Part of the allure of Unawatuna is the lack of commercialized tourism. There are a few large hotels by the beach, mostly guesthouses and small restaurants owned and run by hospitable locals. They take the time to get to know you by name, and many are even fluent in German and French, as well as English, and are very knowledgeable about surrounding attractions. When the last time was the chef at the Hyatt had a chat with you about how changing weather patterns affect the survival of coral reef?

  If you visit Unawatuna, you have to stop by my favorite place, the Kingfisher restaurant – a small establishment located about thirty feet from the water’s edge. In my opinion, Kingfisher serves food the puts most 5 star hotels to shame. Calamari, crabs, prawns, lobster, all cooked for you in any way you like, and you can order local delicacies. If you give them a couple hours notice.

You must try to coconut-pancakes with a scoop of ice cream on the side! What’s most delightful is that they get their seafood fresh from local fishermen in the mornings and don’t store it for more than a day. This policy guarantees the freshness of ocean delicacies. Should you prefer a little adventure, you can even catch your own fish. Just walk out onto the edge of the reef early in the morning when the tide is low, take your line and bait, and cast away! The boys at Kingfisher will be more than happy to cook your catch in any manner you desire.

If you feel like stretching your legs after an afternoon siesta under a coconut tree, I suggest you take a walk to the temple. Elevated on a rocky point on the northern corner of the bay, this charming little “Dagoba” overlooks the reef to the South, and the shoreline to the North for many miles. It is an excellent vantage point from which to watch a sunset. About 50 feet below you, waves pound the rocks and tease you with a light misty spray as you look out onto the horizon. Let your gaze wander to the left, and your eyes are in for a treat. In the light of the setting sun, the shallow reef turns into a delicious emerald pool with white foamy trimmings of little waves. Rarely do you find a body of water this color anywhere in Sri Lanka is magical?  Just wait till nightfall!

Few places can create the ambiance that this bay has in the evenings. The restaurants bring their tables out onto the sand and candles provide that soft romantic touch. Dinner under the stars and on the sand by the edge of the water, with the soft symphony of the waves running on to the shore, talk about a natural aphrodisiac! Its beauty is unparalleled, especially on full-moon nights where the ripples on the water glimmer as if Amphitrite had touched them up with silver dust. If it’s more excitement you seek, a couple of restaurants play a variety of music later into the night, and it’s common to find visitors dancing on the shoreline, sometimes right until dawn. Nobody really dresses up, there are no cover charges, and the numbers are relatively small.

There are many lodges and guesthouses scattered along the bay, and rates vary from just under $20 a night for a basic double room, and up to $ 80 for a double room with luxury facilities. You can also find several houses at varied prices, which will accommodate approximately ten people. Just in case you want to let friend’s family know what they’re missing out on, all you have to do is find one of the Internet cafés and commutation centers with International call facilities, which are easily found within walking distance from the beach.

If you are planning on an extended stay, the historic city of Galle is less that a five minutes drive away, and can supply you with everything you need for basic day- to- day living. The Galle fort is a popular tourist attraction and I suggest taking an afternoon to walk around and learn about its remarkable history. What better way to take a break from the sun and soak up some native culture and history in the bargain.

Be warned, Unawatuna Bay will seduce you with its soothing beauty and simplistic aura, and get you thinking about when you can visit next, even before you have to leave. I suggest the next time you want a taste of paradise, switch off your call-phone and say goodbye to your boss, pack your swimsuit and sun block and swimming by Unawatuna. There is but one risk you may never want to leave!